All You Can (m)Eat

It’s less of a burger and more a study in meat, really. Once you add braised short rib and foie gras into the mixture, it’s difficult to call ground sirloin on a bun a hamburger, which typically conjures up images of the all-American, Joe Six Pack, rootin’ tootin’ good ol’ U.S. of A. meat sandwich.

It is certainly not that, but then again when has Daniel Boulud ever looked for anything that simple? His food has always been outstanding, from Daniel (which earned the coveted 4-star rating from the New York Times in January of this year), to DGBG, which just opened to quite impressive reviews, to his 8 other internationally acclaimed restaurants.

So, while it is not your typical hamburger, it is most definitely a wonderfully rich and delicious study in meat. Beginning with ground sirloin—a great choice because it is relatively lean but with enough marbled fat to make it juicy—the patty is then stuffed with braised short ribs and served with a dollop of foie gras in the middle. The texture of the sirloin perfectly contrasts with the stringy braised short ribs, and the two flavors—tender and savory ribs packed into a denser and juicier shell of ground sirloin—come together perfectly. The dollop of foie gras adds a bit of muted creaminess, which intensifies the flavor combination. Served on a parmesan bun, which doesn’t do much to rein in 5 inch tall inside, the burger is a modern meat marvel. It may be richer than the Astor’s, but it is definitely worth it. (At $32 you may be wondering why, but just go and eat it and you won’t be wondering anymore. Though I didn’t try it, there is an option to add either 10 or 20 grams of shaved black truffle. It significantly adds to the price, though, and the already expensive burger goes up to either $75 or $150, depending on the amount of truffles you add.)

The ambiance in db Bistro Moderne is also quite low key, but retains a quiet elegance that lets you know that you’re in a nice restaurant without overdoing it. They have dialed down their presumption and dialed up their attention to detail, which makes for a very pleasant and easy-going dining experience.

Even though it’s not an everyday burger, it is most definitely an extraordinary take on a classic American favorite, and one that every meat-lover should try immediately.

So, make really elaborate meat sandwiches with foie gras and braised short ribs (and black truffles if you feel so inclined), not war.

And now, to bed.